MF “Tin Ujević” is the car ferry that runs from Split to Stari Grad. It sails several times daily, more often in the summer months and less frequently throughout the rest of the year. The trip takes a couple of hours, I could wish it went faster, but it’s a time to have breakfast (or lunch) and catch up on phone calls or emails. The only time this ferry doesn’t sail is during a strong bura – that powerful blast of cold air that sweeps down off the mainland and can cause such havoc across the Adriatic.
So who is or was Tin Ujević, that he should have a boat named after him? Augustin Ujević was a poet, considered by many to be Croatia’s finest. He’s somewhat of a local boy, having been born in Vrgorac in the Dalmatian hinterland, way over the other side of Biokovo in 1891. His mother came from Milna on the neighbouring island of Brač, and he grew up in Makarska and Split. So he spent quite some time in this area.
I didn’t know anything about Tin’s poetry until I came across the beautifully evokative Bura on Brač, describing the howling of the winter storms across the landscape. It’s a very lyrical poem, using words in a particularly rhythmic way. It reminds me a lot of Dylan Thomas’s work with its repetition and rhythms. I’m going to give it a go at translating it into English, but remember the original was written by a master wordscraftman, so any awkward phrasing in the translation is all mine!
Bura na Braču
U prozore i vratnice
lupa bura tmurnih ura; dršću male dvokatnice. Bura. Bura. Bura. Bura. Kao misli zlopatnice,
kao duše sve patnice, u pjesmi bez riječi struje hladni žmarci u kuće bez peći; tresu male dvokatnice, u prozore i vratnice. Jauču šumarci. Uz obalu stabla gura.
Vjetar gruva, grmi: hura! Ko bi zvučna duša bila razapeta povrh krova? Odgonetah: ti si vila Mosora i Biokova. Ti se žičiš zvonkim staklom, ti si jecaj tog konopca, a nad morskim bijelim paklom gordi polet divljeg kopca, oblik lađareva ropca. O te muke tvoga plača,
o te pjesme tvoga brača izbodene povrh drača: buro, ti si blokus Brača. |
Bura on Brač
Into windows and doors
The bura pounds in gloomy hours; small stone houses shudder. Bura. Bura. Bura. Bura. As witching thoughts,
as all the suffering souls, in songs without words the flowing cold jolts in homes without heating shaking the small houses, in windows and doors. Woodlands moan. Along the coast tearing trees.
Wind thumps, thunders: roars! Who is this noisy soul ripping across the roof-tops? I know you, you are the spirit of Mosor and Biokovo. You are the noise of thrumming glass You are the cry of the rope and above the white hell of the sea the proud flight of the wild falcon, the shape of the boatman’s sail. O those suffering of your tears,
o the songs of your brothers torn by the thorns: bura, you are the scourge of Brač. |
Read more about Tin Ujević on Wikipedia
Where is the MF Tin Ujević right now? Find out on Marine Traffic
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